Showing posts with label David Chang. Show all posts
Showing posts with label David Chang. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Momofuku Ssam Bar

Momofuku Ssam Bar

Ssam Bar was the last David Chang outpost that I needed to visit. Each of David's joints has a specific feel and purpose but his style ties all of them together. His menus seem to come together in similar fashion with quality components and a creative mind coming together give an odd but exciting twists to traditional (and not so traditional) dishes. What I do find is that no matter how 'exotic' the dish, the presentation always makes the food approachable.

Ssam Bar has long been on my list just because it was the missing piece for me to close my Momofuku loop. By this time, I feel like I understand the chef's food and know what to expect. The new car smell has worn off. That's not to say that the food no longer excites me, because it does. (I don't think I'll ever grow weary of pork belly buns.)

What I have come to appreciate is the high quality of food the Momofuku kitchens have been able to churn out. Some dishes have been hit or miss, but the quality, precision, and care put into a dish has never been lacking. I do have to applaud the Momofuku crew for running a first rate operation.

As for the meal at Ssam Bar itself? I do have to admit that my post comes over a month after my visit and with no notes, its becoming quite hard to remember all the details of the meal. I'm not sure if this is all for the worse since the few things I do remember, I remember fondly.

Bev Eggelston's Country Ham
Bev Eggelston's Country Ham (Shenandoah Valley, VA), red-eye gravy, Sullivan Street Bakery baguette.

The country ham stole the show. Actually, it was the show. The ham itself was sliced delicately and the bread was what I would expect from Jim Lahey's bakery. Both wonderful selections for David Chang to showcase on his menu. But what really elevated the collection of 3rd party goods was the 'red-eye gravy'. Broken down, red-eye gravy is coffee flavored mayo. Put together, its a creamy bitter smoky concoction. It brought and already perfect combination to a level I never knew existed. I would be happy just ordering all the ham's on the menu, just to see how the gravy would compliment.

The rest sort of fades from my mind. I remember the crispy pig's head to be good. Nice and crispy as advertised with a great fattiness to it. The pork buns have yet to disappoint. The chicken fried chicken sounded great but fell short. The asparagus with burgundy snails I don't remember at all.

My next Momofuku experience? I hope its the infamous Bo Ssam...

Crispy Pig's Head
Crispy Pig's Head (Newman's Farm, MO), lime pickle, frisee.

Pork belly buns
Pork Belly Buns

Bell & Evan's Chicken Fried Chicken
Bell & Evan's Chicken Fried Chicken with ramps, morels, and eggs.

Asparagus and Burgundy Snails
Asparagus and Burgundy Snails, onion dashi, market greens.

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Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Momofuku Ko

163 First Ave, 31 Lexington Avenue

It was sheer luck that I ever got to eat at David Chang's infamous Momofuku Ko. The girl and I had just been seated by the kitchen at Momofuku. we had just ordered. I could just taste those delicious (but overpriced) pork buns. But as our waitress walked away, the hostess came by and offered us two seats at Ko. We had been the last couple to be seated and were first on her list to fill the just canceled spots over at Ko. I was in shock. I was excited. I was worried about paying for it. There was something I wasn't thinking of. After a quick prodding by the cooks and patrons, and a quick nod from the gf, we accepted and made our way over. It was then I realized that the gf would need to eat meat tonight. The type of meat she wouldn't normally consume. Thank god she's not a strict vegetarian. (I secretly think I can turn her, the same way men think they can change the minds of lesbians)

The rest of the night is pretty much a blur. The girl had the foresight to notate our meal, typing furiously into her blackberry after each course presentation, all that we could remember the chef explaining to us.

There are a few things that stand out in my memory of the meal.

Fresh sea diver scallop, unagi, and something else was so fresh and smooth. The wine pairing was marvelous.

Shaved fois gras, lychee, pine nut brittle, and some sort of jelly. It was a party in my mouth. It hit every part of my tongue. The texture was amazing. I wanted to lick the bowl, but was afraid of all the stares I would be getting. I wanted more.

Basil seeds are sweet and delicious.

Pretzel ice cream? Did he just say pretzel ice cream? Why yes he did and guess what it tastes like? Go figure.

What really came out of the meal was a new found appreciation for the creativity of David Chang and his chef de cuisine Peter Serpico. I was never really fully impressed with Momofuku. I had had better noodles at cheaper prices. The pork buns are the saving grace for me, but the price I needed to pay for a meal for 2 there makes me think twice every time I want to go. But Ko? Pure brilliance. It puts my respect for the brand on another level.

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